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An English Summer

by Jose 10. August 2010 22:07

Only in England. It could only happen in England , in an English summer ; a mini short-lived  heatwave in the south (as soon as the barbeque is lit the summer's gone), floods in the northwest, highest July rainfall for years , a hosepipe ban, a foreign national football team manager, cricket failure (with attendant disparaging critical press) quickly followed by cricket success (understated plaudits from the press), football disappointment in South Africa, annual disappointment at Wimbledon but no rain (the expensive state-of-the-art weather-proof roof has not been required since it was built) and, for added interest,  the country  saddled with a pushme-pullme coalition government. Never a dull moment. Bah to the Costas' daily sunshine - so warm, so reliable, so predictable. Where's the struggle in that?

But, hey, what an excuse to mix and change and try all sorts of drinks to fit the day's conditions. And what an impressive selection, variety and range of wines we now have. When I first arrived in England in 1955 there was little more than cream sherry and the like of "Rocamar" red table wine at the affordable end and everything else was mostly for the privileged few with the wherewithal. Now everything is possible and a great deal of it within most budgets. The supermarkets now carry very extensive and impressive ranges of wines from all over the World and the high street wine retailers offer superb knowledgeable service. I hope you find something to like in the following, and there's quite a choice.

Henley Regatta came and went and in super sunshine. This quintessential English festival, with its aura of Edwardian elegance, superb athletes and one of the best loved stretches of the Thames is perfect for a traditional glass of Pimms or champagne. Whilst the rowers gave their all (and there's no prize money at stake, it's for sporting camaradie and glory) we, of less physical prowess, settled for lunch by the riverbank. A Viognier Leduc Languedoc 2009 (look for it at about £8.00) went well with a terrine of salmon and crayfish with saffron.  This is a fresh and lively example of Viognier, light acidity, perfect for summer. My rating 80.  

We followed this with a Chateau Reynier 2006 Bordeaux (cabernet sauvignon and merlot) to accompany thyme and rosemary roasted chicken with artichoke. This is the club claret which I favour for its pleasant soft ripe fruit easy-drinking quality (£8.80). My rating 85.

Post-Regatta but in the same town and with the sun still shining, I tried another good summer white. Trebbiano IGT Rubicone Poggio della Quercia Emilia Romagna Veneto, Italia, NV. (£5.80) I can't resist giving you the whole name. Try saying it aloud and give it your best Italian lilt or, better still, sing it. Who cares what the wine is like? How could you not like it with such sing-song poetry? From the banks of the Rubicon river (yes, you know it from the Roman Caesars' crossings). A non-vintage easily quaffable fresh, dry, fruity, citrusy white. I know it's sacrilege, but I make it into a spritzer with good (Hildon) sparkling water, a couple of cubes of ice and the thinnest sliver of lemon. Great on a summers' day. My rating 75.

A bit of business got me out to Gibraltar for a couple of days, so I took the opportunity to look around and sample the local food and drink. I don't want to do any disservice to their tourist office but, my, what dismal food almost everywhere. So the exceptions easily stand out. Even some of the waiters I chatted to said they saved going out for a meal for when they were over the border in La Linea. I took a walk to the impressive modern marina in a great setting with its myriad bars, clubs and restaurants, largely carved out of land reclaimed from the sea. Visually it's stunning and at night it is full of twinkling lights reflected on the gently lapping sea. Wonderful beautiful yachts, against a hint of the dying sun as it disappears below the horizon, wafting music, chat and laughter. I tried a couple of the bars but didn't last long once inside; all indifferent service and poor interiors. What a waste of excellent  restaurant sites, all noisy, low ceilinged, with mishmash decor, over-fussy menus, top prices and rock bottom cooking. I even went back next day to ensure it wasn't me being fussy. But no improvement. At Bianca's restaurant, a noisy place with sound ricocheting from the low ceiling (and on my visit there was a gaggle of noisy shrill girls enjoying a reunion).We were three for dinner and all three meals were left hardly touched. We tried to keep the order simple (a vegetable lasagne, a vegetable risotto and fish cakes with parsley sauce. Uck to all three. I ordered a glass of Rioja and was served a barely drinkable plonk (and I drink most anything!). And just when things couldn't get worse, it did. A dreadfully out of tune trio just about topped it.

Thankfully, and now quite late, to the timeless elegance of the Rock Hotel. Impeccable service, impeccable cocktails and a light snack of fresh lovely food served al fresco high up on the Rock with wonderful views of the gardens below and across the bay of Algeciras and the sierras beyond. As we'd been late and not given it the attention it deserved, we returned next day for a fuller meal. We were immediately served a complimentary glass of Manzanilla ( a type of dry sherry with a salty tang) , a perfect aperitif before our starter of roasted sea scallops with pata negra (a wonderful cured ham) , garlic pommes purée and  a caper velouté , followed by slow braised pork belly with roast garlic and chorizo. With the starter we drank Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut, Cava; crisp, very dry clean tasting with low acidity and a good alternative to champagne. £6.64 at Waitrose Direct. My rating 80. 

With the braised pork we had Ribera del Duero "Crianza" Pesquera 2006 Tempranillo, by Alejandro Fernández. Wonderful silky smooth lightly oaked with forest fruit .I've seen it retail at up to £18.45 but it is widely available at about £16.70. My rating 92.

Once last attempt at finding decent local restaurant food in Gib took me to the lovely La Mamela restaurant (from a derivative Spanish word for breast- so named after the rock formation at the end of the beach resembling said mammary) an excellent, atmospheric fish eatery at the southern end of the beach in Catalan Bay.

Old fashioned courtesy and service, superb menu and reasonable wines. We had local fresh gallo, a type of dory, superb garnish and salad. A tad expensive, but real food to be highly commended.

I couldn't resist popping over into Spain for the couple of spare hours I had. I just have to recommend "La Velada" (at No.6 Calle Oviedo La Linea) a wonderful local tapas bar (more properly a meson - a sort of inn/tavern) run by Alicia and Andres, both of whom are excellent hosts. No tourist here, just regulars, where I was taken by my cousins. All manner of lovely local delicacies, fresh fish, tapas and a super selection of (predominantly Spanish) wines. If you're in the area, a worthwhile visit. I was so delighted that I promised Andres I'd give them a mention.

One of the pleasures of writing this blog is having to try new wines, something I relish. Another pleasure, most welcomed, are the comments, messages, recipes, samples and suggestions from friends (with occasional criticisms). Recently, for instance, my friend Pav staying with me recently, brought along a selection of bottles as a gift. These included wines from the award winning winery, Wolf Blass Eaglehawk Shiraz 2008, Australia (red), inexpensive for such quality, easiest to find on the internet at about £7.09. Medium bodied, subtle oak and spicy red berry fruit, with a long finish, a powerful partner for BBQs and lamb; and Wolf Blass Eaglehawk Chardonnay 2009, Australia (white) £6.50, an excellent chardonnay at an excellent price.

Another golfing friend, John from darkest Somerset, who offers comments from to time (some of it unprintable) sent me a bottle to try from his winemaker friend (www.latourdechollet.com), La Tour de Chollet 2007, cuvee classique, Sainte-Foy Bordeaux (12.5%).  I loved this wine, even if you allow that I'm a great fan of Bordeaux, a fruity un-oaked wine, predominately merlot with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. A bargain. Price for 6 bottles £47.94 direct from info@latourdechollet.com. My rating 92.                    (They also make a premium version 'Prestige' predominantly cabernet sauvignon and aged in oak barrels, but I've not yet tasted this).

My wife's cousin Guy, who lives close to the New Forest (I don't think it's in a tree, but who knows? The wife's family are a bit funny that way) hid a bottle for me to try , in the huge box of chocolates he brought her .But that hasn't been drunk yet, so I'll tell you about it next time.

One of my cousins in Spain handed me some local bottles, all of which he stressed were inexpensive, some of which I have now been consumed. Difficult to find in the UK but widely available in supermarkets across Spain:

Ojogalla El Clarete rose Bodegas los Tinos SA 11.5%. A decent rose which I enjoyed during our recent warm weather with a light al fresco lunch. Less than €5. My rating 80.

Dolce Prima 5 % Muscatel. A Moscatel wine, a naturally sweet wine, served very cold it's delicious on a sunny day, served at room temperature it's a decent dessert wine. Malaga is an excellent area for this wine type, of which is a good example. My rating 85.

Codorniu Herencia 1551 cava 11.5%. Produced by small family businesses with a small production. An excellent Sparkling Cava from Cataluña, pale straw yellow colour, unmistakable aromatic Chardonnay notes excellent balance between acidity and sugar. My rating 88. About €27, but free to me courtesy of cousin Paco. What a wonderful man!

As a Spaniard, I think that by now my compadres paisanos  would have expected me to celebrate Spain's wonderfully successful summer of sport and maybe gloat  the glut of  glory (with good grace of course) of the World Cup, Wimbledon, Tour de France and even the odd Formula 1 Grand Prix . What's to brag about? We didn't win any Golf majors. How about it Miguel Angel Jimenez? You only ever manage number 2.  But, hey, just all the above tastings should be celebration enough. It never ceases to amaze me just how much choice there is out there. And with the supermarkets outdoing one another it's easy to try something new inexpensively.

Went to Sunday lunch en famille with said friend Pav above. I had opted for a Greek restaurant, the Green Olive of which there are several in the South East. As Pav is of Greek origin we left the ordering to him, on the basis that speak the lingo and you get the better service. It didn't disappoint from the first ouzo to the last dregs of the wine. I've often had their Gaia Notios Agiorgitiko, 2008 Crete (red) and can recommend it. Very fruity style, bursting with ripe plum flavours. Greek friends tell me they like it chilled to go with a cold picnic (the restaurant price of a bottle is £25). But on a recent return visit, as I was going to be driving a few hours later in the day, I opted for water and a small glass of the house red. Now, house wine can be great and is usually great value, but this one was left after the first tentative sip. Instead I asked for a replacement, a rioja. And, presto, a new discovery for me ,so I asked to see the bottle and  it was an excellent Bodegas Artesa 2007 Rioja Crianza (13%).(restaurant price £20 bottle). In the shops at £7.75. My rating 85. I've since looked at their website where they list their menus and wine list (an excellent idea - which should be adopted more widely by restaurants) and they have an interesting eclectic list including wines from many countries. Well done Green olive.

One last addition: at a recent golf dinner (where the wine is usually supplied rather than chosen) I was taken by the red Esperanza Merlot Mendoza (13%) Argentina 2009. Impressively smooth, with salient spice, red fruit and a good longish aftertaste. A great drink at £4.79 at Majestic.

To those of you, friends and all, who've sent me comments and suggestions for inclusion, you're not forgotten. Please keep them coming, I'll get round to it all eventually.

We're in mid-summer and as temperatures start to recede it's time to think about replacing the light lunches- try this:


Chicken breast fillets with a rich sauce of peppers and tomato puree.


    2 chicken breast fillets.

    25gms cured ham (jamon).
    1 onion.
    1 green pepper
    1 red pepper
    1 aubergine (medium size)
    3 tablespoons tomato puree
    1 teaspoon chopped parsley
    1 tablespoon olive oil
   Salt and pepper

Preparation

1. Dice the ham into small pieces, peel and chop the onion and peppers.

2. Peel the aubergine and cut into squares.

3. Season the chicken.

4. In an earthenware dish - fry the fillets in the oil, both sides.

5. Add the ham and sauté for a few seconds.

6. Add the onion and peppers and sauté for a few minutes.

7. Add the aubergine and sauté briefly.

8. Cover the pan and cook over low heat.

9. When the vegetables begin to brown add the tomato, salt to taste, and stir the mix a little.

10. When the sauce is well reduced serve, adorn with the chopped parsley.

Accompany with your choice from a chardonnay, a Chianti, Rosso di Montalcino, Rioja, or Cabernet Sauvignon. If you've made the dish tomato-rich go for one of the reds

 

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After fascinating April came hectic May!

by Jose 9. June 2010 18:43

Well, after fascinating April came hectic May, and hectic and then some. (I'm trying terribly not to use an exclamation mark - but I'm tempted, oh I can't help it! There!

There was one of those well-argued intellect-led article (may have been in The Telegraph) about the overuse of the! There's a deluge of !!! in emails and the internet it has been! Seems like we all want to emphasise. Or shout.  A bit like all the ludicrous, moronic screaming on reality TV and "The X Factor", "Britain has still a bit of talent"  and so on.

Boy, am I a grumpy old man or what?

The month started not so good. Took mum to GP who didn't seem to take her ailments seriously and suggested she take a bit more rest. Disappointed, we were polite, left and I took her to a specialist who's done wonders for me in the past. Took him 3 minutes to diagnose problem, another few minutes to do blood test and prescribe magic pills that would clear all symptoms in days.  And it did. (Nearly tripped up and used the dreaded excl. mk. Shhh) Doc is a great chap. Loves a drop of vino tinto , keeps fees to minimum, speaks to mum in her native Spanish. Yes, folks, there're some terrific people out there. So, with mum back to her charming self, time to celebrate with a 2008 Pouilly-Fuisse, Louis Jadot, Burgundy (white). Always a classy white, medium-bodied, it's easy to recommend. Louis Jadot has a well-deserved reputation and this wine enhances it. Citrus hints in a light oak, lovely finish. £14.49 at Tesco. My rating 92.

As soon as mum was her old self again we jetted off to Southern Spain with my sister. Icelandic volcanic ash everywhere except, thankfully, the day we flew off and the day we returned (See how I'm refraining from the exclamation mark?) Mostly tried the regular house wines wherever we went and mostly it was pretty good. At one tapas bar I was so taken aback by the quality of a glass of Rioja that I called over the barman. It was a 2006 Faustino, but so silky smooth I insisted on seeing the bottle. And, yep, it was Faustino VII - Rioja Tinto 2006. Superb. But, next day, I asked for a glass of the same and it was just not quite the same. Nonetheless, I've since had a bottle back in blighty and it is an elegant rioja. So go have a taste. Faustino VII Rioja Tinto from the Alavesa sub-region, (95% tempranillo and 5% mazuelo), aged in oak. Rich velvety red colour with the typical rioja hint of vanilla aroma. (Sells in the UK at about £8.75).

At another modest tapas bar we had a medium dry 2007 Codorniu Vintage Rosado(Monastrell and Pinot Noir) - classic  Cava from near Barcelona, a good sparkling rose with lots of  summer fruit flavours .I found this back home selling at half-price, a bargain in Tesco at £6.16. My rating 80.

I had not intended to bring back any wine as I'm too lazy to carry it all the way home. However, we were invited to a (for you Anglo-Saxons) very late lunch, 3.00pm, at my lovely cousin's pad in La Linea. Coming out of the stifling hot afternoon air and into the cool of her welcoming house it was already beginning to feel heaven. We were then ushered into the patio, under the shade of the climbing, trailing plants by her swimming pool, all empty, glimmering, shining and reflecting little thin shafts of sunbeams in the light breeze.  My eyes went straight to.. ...the table, set out with a delicious assortment of home-made food, fish as fresh as it gets, succulent olives, crispy salads. I like this. To top it all her husband took me to his little hoard and together we selected some wines. What a wonderful afternoon. Good food, good wine, lovely setting, gentle, attentive entertaining people .And their jewel of a gorgeous daughter with a smile all her own. Of course, they weren't going to let me go empty handed and not a few bottles were bestowed on me. I shall report on these in due course.

Back home and after a little, not too much work, a bit of golf (I was useless) and, then, meet up with youngest son to entrust him with my modest investments. He's only been at it for a few years but is showing promise. So after parting with the loot to him and his colleague James (annoying good golfer and every other sport going), I really needed a little pick-me-up. A good time to taste some samples sent to me. Here's the first five:

First off, Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois (Les Vignerons de la Mediterranee), from Languedoc, France. (Sweet white). A dessert wine from the south of France, a golden yellow colour and with a gorgeous fruit and floral nose, great with fruit desserts and cheese. I always intend to drink more dessert wines but after a greedy full repast, never leave sufficient room, so I frequently miss out. This one has more than reminded me to straighten myself out. Looks like I've come late to this one, a wonderful find. Serve it cold.  A bargain 37.5cl for £4.38 at Sainsbury. My rating 90.

Leasingham Wines Magnus Riesling (Clare Valley) 2009 (white) :The Riesling grape type, originating in the Rhine region of Germany, is almost lightly perfumed, with high acidity and is now widely used around the World. This wine is a fine, elegant Australian example, pale, with a barely green tinge, hint of fruits, pronounced acidity at the finish. Try it with Crayfish or crab or prawn salad. Carried by a number of supermarkets, including Sainsbury and Somerfield at about £7.99. My rating 84.

Ona (Anakena) Riesling Viognier Chardonnay 2008. Chile.I was new to this wine and as you'd expect with such a blend of grapes, I found it quite complex and not sure on first tasting it. A couple of gentle swigs later though I really got into it and found all sorts going on, tasting all three varieties but  balanced and fresh , and ended up enough of a convert to put it on my list for more in the future.  Light gold colour, citrusy, smooth. It's a match for a wide range of food; certainly chicken and all sorts of seafood.  £9.99 at Oddbins (incidentally, Oddbins is getting back in the groove). My rating 85.

Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay 2009 Coastal Region, South Africa. (White). I find it difficult to even begin to dissect chardonnays, its origins generally assumed in the Burgundy region, this grape type is now grown and used worldwide. Maybe Chardonnay lost a bit of its cachet in the 1980s when it was oh so trendy and Global. Anyway, here we have a super wine from South Africa where the quality for the price pushes it up the scale. I looked up the Boschendal Estate on the internet and it looks lush and with beautiful mountain scenery. I have several friends who visit South Africa taking in wine-tastings and I have to say I won't hold out long before taking a peek myself. This is a well-established Estate and the know-how must have built up because this is not the first of their excellent wines I've tasted. It's fresh, creamy and nutty .It will go well with fish, poultry and creamy sauces. A good buy £7.99 at Waitrose. My rating 85.

Ravenswood Vintners Blend Zinfandel 2007 California, USA (full bodied red). A good example of this widely grown grape-type in California. Californian zinfandel can come in strong with 15% content, this one weighs in at 13.5% which is how I like it. Distinctively rich, balanced with lots of hints of berry fruit, faintly sweet and lightly peppery, lightly oaked. A robust accompaniment to steaks, beefburgers and the like, it can also stand bring drunk on its own. At Waitrose, Tesco, Spar and others at about £7.99.My rating 82.

In between these labours of love, of course, all manner of things interfere; the odd job (though I'm mostly retired with minimum commitments),a little golf, a family BBQ,  and even a bit of horseracing at the golf club (no, I'm still holding back the excl.mks.).

Ah golf. I was drawn in a competition where one of the contenders was a 13 year old (handsome, refined lad is Olly). He was playing off a 12 handicap (no, I'm not telling but mine reverses that and adds a bit more). You don't need me telling you; he moved like Tiger (before his off-course adventures), played like Tiger, beat as hands-down (nay, annihilated us) and was a perfect gentleman in his triumph. Here's hoping my trio fruits of my loin read this. Olly, I want to be your manager and I'll carry your bag at the Ryder Cup.

A BBQ is not usually in my itinerary but this one was a sort of command you don't turn down. From the youngest son's girlfriend's mum,  'Nula. Not only did she chose the most perfect sunny day in between days of thunder and produced a sumptuous feast, but there it was, stretching in front of us across her extensive gardens , the Vale of the White Horse looking down from Oxon to Wiltshire . What a fab sight. What's to be done? How about a little of that Codorniu Rosado followed by the Californian zinfandel with the lamb chops and sausages?

Now I don't know if you'll believe this. There's a bit of a fray and politics and that sort of thing going on about the managing company's running of the block. So they called a meeting of residents, who rarely turn up for these orgies of debate, reminiscent of the worst of parliament's PM's questions. Ahah, cleverly they could only book a room at the Warrington saloon bar, ye local holstery. Yes, you're there before me. Hey presto, the best attendance yet. Isn't life grand?

Now, that's enough for now, see you soon. But let me leave you with this. As his first contribution has been universally acclaimed by my circle, my good friend Richard, news editor and raconteur, has sent me another recipe. He says it's best enjoyed in mid-February in front of a roaring log fire. So he's either terribly well organised in advance or

He knows the weather forecast better than the Met office (well, anybody could, I suppose) or he's just showing off his culinary prowess.

Oven baked sausage and bean pot.

1.) Cook four herby and/or garlicky sausages until browned.

Set aside.

2.) Finely chop three red onions and fry in an ovenproof pot until soft and golden brown.

3.) Add 200 mls of chicken or vegetable stock and 200mls of arrabbiata sauce

- not worth making, supermarket versions are fine -

2 tbls soft brown sugar, and 200mls of Guinness.

4.) Bring to boil and let bubble away for a few minutes before adding 400 g of rinsed mixed beans and the sausages.

5.) Cover and bake in oven, gas mark 6, for around 35 minutes.

6.) Season, scatter with chopped parsley and devour with plenty of crusty bread.

Best enjoyed in mid-February in front of a roaring log fire!


I'd say this calls for the Zinfandel, what say you?

 

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What a fascinating April it has been!

by Jose 1. May 2010 23:07

Jose is our resident wine enthusiast and has kindly agreed to try lots of wines and give you his opinions. Jose tells it exactly like it is so good or bad Jose will leave you in no doubt as to what he thinks.

Lots of candid reviews of what Jose ate, drank and watched last week all wines are given a score out of 100.


What a fascinating April it has been!

Cheating by a day, on 31 March my team looked capable of doing the unthinkable when Walcott and Fabregas negated Ibrahimovic's 2 goals. Result: Arsenal 2  Barcelona 2. I celebrated modestly (well, there was a return match to come in Barcelona's Camp Nou) with a couple of glasses of Caves St Pierre Cotes du Rhone Villages Preference Skalli 2008 (as I say, modestly). Easy drinking, cherry blackcurrant flavours, goes with a wide range of food. I had a selection of tapas. Terrific bargain at £5.96 (Tesco 50% offer). My rating 80.

Next day my gorgeous, blonde, songbird friend Stephanie took me to lunch, to toast a completed deal, at The Inn at Maybury in Woking and we chose Louis Dornier & Fils Associes d'alliance Champagne Reims (shipped by Grants). From the southerly Champagne vineyards which are known for wines which are softer and quicker to mature, so perfect for drinking young. Light, fresh and gentle lemony nose. Both drink and company superb. Expect to pay about a bargain £23.99. My rating 82.

6th April. Day of reckoning for the Arsenal. Return match at Barcelona's Camp Nou. And would you believe it? Lionel Messi picks this day for his best-ever performance. He scores all 4 goals for Barcelona .And, no, it's no consolation he's the best player in the world. Celebrations are on hold, I'm on sparkling water.

No matter, all's forgotten next day. On 7 April a terrific TV programme on the legendary, prolific Johnny Mercer (lyricist, composer and singer ) including the great man in concert backed by the Harry Roche Constellation , with Harry on trombone and my great songbird friends Stephanie (yes, same said Steph) and Clare providing the vocals. Super, deserving a little celebrationary tipple in front of the telly with a good bowl of pasta primavera and Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages 2008 (Red). Lighter than the usual big Italian reds that go well with pasta and pizza.  Lovely, full of red fruit. £8.99. My rating 82.

Goirdano Merlot and Malbec, Tarantino 2005, d'Alba, Italy. A friend had sent me a mixed case from a newspaper wine club. I've had this before and sometimes I take to it and sometimes I'm a bit critical.  My latest bottle drunk to accompany roast beef and all trimmings (recipe for wife training to follow some day) was ruby red, with lots of forest fruit, full bodied and with a slightly bitter aftertaste. Worked splendidly. Now, I don't know where it's retailed, so there's your homework for now. I'd expect it to be priced in the range £6.50 to £7.50. My rating (this time) 78.

I said earlier that it's been a fascinating April. Well, from just before Easter and throughout April I've come across some terrific supermarket bargains. Really spoiled for choice at the lower priced wines from Tesco, at up to 50% discount, I tried:

Saint Clair 2007 Puisseguin Saint Emilion 2007 (merlot, cabernet franc and sauvignon). Soft, smooth and spicy. £7.49. My rating (this time) 84.

Caves St Pierre Cotes du Rhone Villages Preference 2008 (Skalli). Red. Tastes of cherry, blackcurrant, fruity, full bodied. £5.96. My rating 82.

Famiglia Terracia Chianti Riserva 2006, Siena Tuscany (sangiovese canaiolo). Red. Dry, fresh, hint of cherries almonds and oak.  I'm a fan of Chianti Classico and this doesn't quite make it for me. But it's very reminiscent of local Chianti in Italy and it's certainly very drinkable, and at the price there can be no complaints. Try it with pasta with tomato sauces or any hearty tomato-ish Italian food.
£5.49. My rating 78.

48 hour cooked pork collar is a favourite of mine at my club, cooked so slowly the meat is so tender it melts in the mouth. On asking for the club rioja to go with it and told none was available, I was offered Navarra Campo Nuevo 2008 Tempranillo(Red). Navarra borders and is north-east of La Rioja region and tempranillo is the mainstay grape type of Rioja. This wine is a considerable economy find. My initial reaction was glorious, but let's not get carried away, it's just a wine, though a goody and, for my money, cheap, wonderfully soft, easily quaffable. Yep, I'll be sampling more of this. I've seen it on the internet at about £6. My rating 82.

I may have reported before on Loire Les Nuages Pinot Noir St Pourcain VDQS 2007 (Red) so it'll be interesting how it compares .I was going to say it is light with spicy redcurrant nuances. But I could just as easily say it has weak acidy with raspberry taste, no after taste, thin with no body. It's still a good drink but maybe it's too delicate for me. I'd be interested for others' views and willing to be educated. About £7.25.   My rating 75

Friends have been kind enough to offer comments on these pages, some are even publishable. With a little bit of editing I give some samples:

A dear friend whose family I've known many years writes:

 "I have been onto the website and have much enjoyed your recipes and wine commentary.  Monday to Thursday, my only alcohol is a glass of beer (such as Rebellion Brewery in Marlow, this week their Spring Quarter beer Zebedee, as in Magic Roundabout) and a tot of something for a nightcap (tonight Penderyn Welsh whisky). However, we did push the boat out a little at Easter, particularly as our daughter Anna returned from Syria, from setting up a teaching scheme for a seriously autistic child in Aleppo.  On both Maundy Thursday and Good Friday we had cider-based meals with on the Thursday Sheppy's Bullfinch, a medium dry from Bradford-on-Tone in Somerset, and on Friday the bone-dry single varietal Burrow Hill Stoke Red from Kingsbury Episcopi, also in Somerset. On Saturday, at our first class local gastropub, we had a lovely modern-style and flavoursome Barolo 2003 and, with the puddings, a 5 puttonyos Tokay, which was superb. On Easter Sunday, over smoked salmon we had a cracking English Rose Champagne, Ridgeview Fitzrovia 2006, from Ditchling in West Sussex. It was excellent and we all agreed why in a recent blind tasting against French Rose Champagnes it came out on top, having knocked the opposition into a cocked hat. We moved on to New Season Lamb and the accompaniment to this was a super Napa, Parradux 1997 from Duckhorn Vineyard, made up of an equal balance of Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Even Anna, who is now a fully qualified sommelier, agreed that it was one of the best wines that she had ever tasted. We rounded off with Bread & Butter pudding, and to cut across this we had another English wine, the off dry and lemony Viticula Solaris from the Shropshire Wroxeter Vineyard just to the East of Shrewsbury, which turned out to be a perfect match. Easter Monday, winding down before the return to work, we had steak and Chateau Cissac 1990. This a sturdy and utterly reliable Haut Medoc Cru Bourgeois (Cabernet Sauvignon 75%, Merlot 20% and Petit Verdot 5%) much loved of Oxford and Cambridge Colleges. Jane Macquitty doesn't like it, complaining that it is leathery, boring and old.*******.. (not printable for delicate souls). We question her assessment of wines (except perhaps in the case of German & Alsace wines and sherry) and this was a classic example of prejudicial attitudes being way off target: smooth, flavoursome and showing no sign of its 20 years in bottle. HEADY STUFF, WHAT !!"

An English friend living in North Merrick, New York and a fair judge of wine states....
"When I'm not so flush I drink Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc instead of Cloudy Bay - doesn't have the class but very acceptable. Whilst I'm on holiday in Australia I'll look out for interesting wines to report"

Another friend, my favourite adventurous photographer writes:
"All very interesting - keep me on the mailing list. And if you like red wine from Tesco, try 'Stormhoek' Pinotage 2008. Great value at £5.10 and ridiculous at special offer 'Three for £10' if they do it again".

My good friend Richard, my favourite news editor, and most entertaining raconteur, offers us his recipe that I'll call Richard's fishy stew:

Richard's fishy stew

This serves four so easily halved.

Ingredients

6 tblsp extra virgin olive oil
1 big onion
2 cloves of garlic - sliced
1 tblsp chopped rosemary
2 bay leaves
2 red peppers, split, deseeded and finely sliced

Half teaspoon of smoked paprika
400 gms tin tomatoes
150ml white wine
100mls fish stock
Pinch of saffron - warmed in water for 15 minutes
150gms roasted almonds.
700gms monkfish cut into chunks
450gms clams or mussels
120gms peas
salt and pepper.

Method:

1. Heat the oil in a large pan and - slowly - fry the onions until golden.
2. Add garlic, rosemary, bay leaf and red pepper and when the pepper has softened, the paprika and tomatoes.
3. Simmer for 10 minutes and add the wine.

4. Bubble for a couple of minutes before then adding the fish stock and the saffron.
5. Add the almonds to thicken and season.
6. Add the fish, clams or mussels and peas and simmer for five minutes until the clams or mussels have opened.
7. Serve with either good flat breads or buttery new potatoes.

TERRIFIC!

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Jose's Wine Blog -18th March

by Jose 18. March 2010 22:29

Jose is our resident wine enthusiast and has kindly agreed to try lots of wines and give you his opinions. Jose tells it exactly like it is so good or bad Jose will leave you in no doubt as to what he thinks.

Lots of candid reviews of what Jose ate, drank and watched last week all wines are given a score out of 100.

 

 

Jose's Wine Blog - 18th March 2010


Cotes du Rhone rouge cuvee des Prelats 2008.

from Louis Bernard ( Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre). My tasting notes say "Smooth, vanilla, fruit of the woods with slight sharp aftertaste. But I notice that the sales blurb is " Soft, juicy with classic strawberry Grenache fruit matched with Syrah's tell-tale peppery spice. Rounded, ripe and fruity with bags of character." But no, they're not different wines . I'll concede Soft and Strawberry

but don't remember any peppery taste.Suffice to say it's a lovely wine. As I'm an unreformed uncouth I had it with a lightly creamy soup of tomato , corriander and  carrot soup  followed by moules mariniere . Thus breaking a whole lot of wine drinking rules. But,hey, it worked a treat.( £7.65 ). Our postprandial second bottle brought out all the wine's smoothness without any distraction from food.My rating 78.

 

Abadia, Raimat, Costers Segre, Crianza 2006.
(Cabernet Sauvignon,Tempranillo, Merlot.) .A cheapo to savour (at the price you can serve it to all and sundry).I had this with my wife's traditional Sunday roast lunch -and there's none better. Although a  Spaniard, I taught this to my Liverpudlian wife ( a runner-up in the kitchen) but, of course, her roasts are now much better than mine .Juicy roast beef  with the crispiest potatoes,fluffy inside and fresh veggies.All locally sourced in South Oxfordshire. A glorious Yorkshire pud to set it off. [recipe to follow]. Ahem, back to the wine.....Costers del Segre is a Spanish DO (Denominacion de Origen) in north eastern Catalunya province of Leida .Oak-ish. Hints of cherry ,strong nose and strong aftertaste. A snip at £6.50. My rating 70

Monasterio de Santa Cruz Tarragona DO 2005 by Mario Garcia
An intense deep dark red . Bottle is silent on grape type so I guess it's a blend including Tempranillo and a good dose of the local Monastrell.  (I'm told it's Mourvedre in France,see the Cotes du Rhone above). Smooth and spicy it goes great with chorizo and rich foods. I often have this when snacking in front of the telly as I did when Barcelona (or should I say Messi) stuffed Stuttgart 4-0. Only it wasn't so much a light snack as a hearty meaty beef tomato lasagne. Bring it on. An absolute bargain at £6.00.My rating 70

Aloxe Corton 1er Cru 2007 Domaine Chevalier Père et Fils.
From Louis Latour a pinot noir burgundy red with a welcoming inviting nose, delicate summer fruit. This is one of those wines that should be enjoyed in comparative silence and just savoured. I bought my youngest son a bottle to rub it in that he'd not bought me a birthday present. I don't think it registered because he phoned to tell me it was great and where could he get another or would I be sending him another soon. I refrained from insulting his pedigree and parentage ,given that it brought me into the reckoning. So I opened a bottle all for myself ( I long ago convinced my wife it's in her best interest to be teetotal- well, no competition then, init ?)  Great with beef, steak, most things really. Terrific stuff , and good for the the price, I paid £29 on a special offer, more usually it's about £32. Don't give it to the neighbours, save it for yourself.My rating 88


Harrods Premier cru champagne (by M Hostomme et Fils, Chouilly) 
I've mentioned this before and I keep thinking up good excuses (really any excuses) to have another. This week I had a great round of golf , so that's so exceptional it needed at least one bottle. About £29.90. Hints of citrus , peachy ,nutty taste.My rating 80

Joe's croquetas TV snack:

Croquetas are a traditonal tapas all over Spain with loads of regional variations.This is my take on them 
This has  variations of cheese, mushroom or ham. I'll take the cheese first:

Ingredients:
2 eggs
A knob of butter
Shlurp of dry sherry
Grated hard cheese , about 4 oz. 3  medium-sized King Edward potatoes
4 tablespoonfuls white bread crumbs (home made is best from stale bread)
Good olive oil
A couple tablespoons flour 

Method:
1. Peel and boil the potatoes.Mash and put into a food processor (or if you have a strong wife, just get her to beat in a Pyrex bowl)
2. Add the eggs ( a pro will use just the yolks, which is a nice touch)
3. Add the butter ( 2 oz should do)
4. Add the sherry
5. Add the cheese
6. Add pinch of salt, pinch of pepper, pinch of nutmeg
7. Mix all together - do not overmix so it doesn't get gooey.
8. Make small cylinder shapes
9. Roll each cylinder in flour, dip into beaten egg and finally roll in breadcrumbs.
10. Hot deep fry till golden1
11. Place on kitchen paper to drain and serve

Great with a glass or two of Manzanilla sherry, or champagne or any of the aforementioned grape juices.Healthy Stuff.

Top Tip:Instead of cheese , try diced mushrooms or jamon serrano or even a combination of any two of these.
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